Improvements Over Classical Bridge Designs:
- This bridge may be adjusted under full string tension
- Because a brass bar embedded in the bottom of the saddle supports the entire string area of the saddle, the saddle can be made much smaller than the common old, historical-style saddle.
- The brass bar also insures that the saddle will not bow, sag or break in the middle over time.
- The design also eliminates the screw holes in each end of the saddle that were a part of the old-style.
- When adjusting the thumbwheels all pressure is directed down against the bridge base instead of up against the saddle as in the older designs. This increased surface contact from thumbwheel to base gives your instruments a truer tone and more volume.
- We believe these features give the bridge a more elegant appearance and better mid-frequency functionality.
- To make the bridge easier to use, the top half of each thumbwheel has been machined to accept a slim profile 5/16 wrench included with each bridge.
How To Measure For Ordering:
- Make sure your action (distance from top of frets to bottom of strings) is set where you like it before measuring.
- Measurements are taken on the fingerboard side of the bridge, in the center, from the top of the instrument to the top of the saddle.
- Pick a size that allows you to raise or lower the action from your average playing action.
- We also need to know if your instrument has a flat or radiused fingerboard, nut width, and whether or not you want the saddle slotted for strings.
- Your new bridge will need to be fitted to the top of your instrument.
- Every now and then the action of an instrument needs to be adjusted, sometimes beyond the capability of the new bridge’s range of motion, after it comes to you. If this happens, give us a call with your current measurements and we will get a new base and/or saddle to you.
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